Ramachandi Mandir

On the way back from Konark there is a big arch that indicates the location of Ramchandi mandir. We went through it towards the sea shore. 

It’s a small simple temple with very rural atmosphere. The grand banyan tree tied with red jari cloth are signs of wishes made here by worshipers. The main deity is Chandika who is a form of Durga. So Durga Puja is a big festival here. 

The legends are as fascinating as they can get. To some she is Mayadevi the wife of Surya Dev as she is near the Surya mandir of Konark. KalaPahad tried to destroy her temple but couldn’t. He was stopped by a woman dressed as a maid telling him she will fetch him cold water after he destroyed Konark temple. She disappeared on him as she was RamaChandi herself. He found the temple empty so he went to the seashore looking for the maid. He found the Kushabhadra river flooded and the idol of Ramachandi floating in the middle flow where it was impossible for him to reach. He exhausted by then left the temple unharmed. Later the Goddess appeared in the dream of a poojari and told him to build this temple for him. 

However the temple is more ancient that the Surya Mandir so believe it or not? Is the question!

I was most fascinated by the Dasha Mahavidya present here! They have a fascinating history. These are parallels to Dashavatar in Tantra. Each of the Mahavidya is associated with an avatar of Vishnu and is considered the ugam sthan of the avatar. 

The Dash Mahavidya are fierce goddesses and not everyone can cope with their darshan. Some might be filled with fear by their representations. 

After this I took the Konark- Puri scenic Marine drive road that has made it easy for us travellers to reach these remote destinations and returned back to Puri for a final stay at Mahodadhi Palace. 

Lands end of Konark

 

This is the Konark sea shore near Lotus Eco resort. Though I went there just for lunch it’s a must visit for its location and beauty too. You drive along the sea a bit. Then you park the car 🚙 and walk towards the resort on the red mud path with not a soul in sight. The tiniest sand islands formed by the creek entice you. If I wasn’t solo I would have flunked myself into the water and swam towards it. 

There had been a thread ceremony celebration there the last day but thankfully when I visited it was quite just the way I love. Yet the flower decorations seemed like I was being welcomed into this serene place. 

It was Sai’s fabulous reco to lunch there and enjoy the solo journey to the best.

I felt like an adventurer 🏜️🚶‍♀️

Read about my food and hospitality experience of this place on AnnaParabrahma. They deserve a mention here and I wish I knew before then instead of staying 3 nights in Mahodadhi Palace I could have stayed here for a night. Both properties are owned by Orchid group. They bent backwards for me. Thank you Lotus Eco Resort Konark for everything! 🙏🏽

Magnificent Konark

 

Where do I begin writing about Konark? 

When you lay eyes on the current state of the Konark Surya Mandir your heart bursts and aches. You cry for what has been done to it by the plunderers. It was in complete shambles in the 18th century covered by overgrowth and it is the Marathas that rediscovered it and started its clean up. 

It is known history that KalaPahad invaded Konark a vibrant port in those times and destroyed this temple. This temple is built in the Kalinga architecture style and what remains today is only the Jagmohan mantapa of the temple which is no less magnificent at of height 100 ft. The vimana and the Nata mantapa have collapsed. The temple was built by NARSIMHADEVA 1 of Ganga dynasty in the 13 th century on the shore of Konark. Since then the sea has receded. This temple is built as the chariot of Sun God Surya. The vimana rose to 200 ft. On top of the vimana was a magnetic stone that kept the ferrogenous sandstone used to construct the temple together. KalaPahad had plundered the temple for its wealth and later the Portuguese and British for its magnet on the shikhar. Later the British stole the beautiful statues from this temple. The magnet built into the temple top kept the main statue suspended in the air. Removing that magnet and destruction of the main support made the entire vimana collapse to rubble. After the collapse of the temple caused by the vandals that statue of surya 🌞 was never found. 

Inspite of this destruction the Jagmohana and the raised platform of the temple still mesmerises the visitors. Embellished with beautiful carving depicting life of common people and the royals. It has bandhanas from Kamasutra decorated on the wall, foundations and temple top. 

The 🌞 sun’s first rays would fall on the deity inside the garbh gruha or sanct sanctorium that has been destroyed. 

When we observe how technology and science was used in this 13th century temple we definitely know how evolved Bharat was! Industrial revolution happened only in the 18th century in Europe much later. 

Social life was open minded and celebrated the pleasures of human life depicted thru these coital depicting sculptures. They served as education for the noobs and seasoned equally. 

The splendid sculptures of flora and fauna are arranged such on the lower level and higher levels the humans depicting hierarchy in nature. 

The whole temple chariot has seven horses drawing it and 24 wheels. The wheels stand for Kala chakra the wheels of time. They are sundials that tell time perfectly. The twelve months and the Krishna paksh and Shukla paksh can be calculated immaculately. 

Surrounding the chariot temple are other temples dedicated to the smaller deities. There is also the pakshala and bhojan mantapa. 

The Arun sthamba which was located between the Jagmohan and Nat mandap is now located in front of the lion gate or Simha dwar of Jagannath Puri mandir. It was shifted there by the Marathas for safe keeping.

I spent a lot of time observing the sculptures and architecture and marvelled at the heritage we inherited from our past. In gratitude for whatever remains.

Konark is visited even today by hordes. I can never do justice to this exquisite mandir in words. You must visit and see and experience for yourselves. Such is its magnetic magnificence!

 

Anchored in Jagannath Puri

21, 22, 23 Jan 2024

A place that has special importance in my life as my grandfather was named after the Lord. To me Puri is always Jagannath Puri. In just 30 mins from Raghurajpur I reached my Hotel Mahodadhi palace on Puri Beach. 

Mahodadhi Palace was literally a home away from home. The staff is very caring. Impressed as I was solo. I had booked only one night here but cancelled my booking in a different hotel and requested these guys to accommodate for 2 more days. A four poster bed, a private portico, tub 🛀 to bathe. A diner looking over the beach road. Old world charm on the Jagannath Puri beach. Just had to cross the street to go to the beach. What more could a person ask for? 

They exceeded my expectations when the staff fetched me an EV auto at 4.30 am when I was going for darshan. They even offered me Panda or poojari service which I politely turned down. 

It is now taken over by Orchid so there were repairs going on. The way forward should be better. They have a Vitthal Kamat restaurant at the beach road front on this property which needs improvement. 

The first evening I went to Honey Bee Cafe which I loved for the ambience and decided to do dinner there. Read the review on AnnaParabrahma.

The next two evenings I spent on the Puri beach. Walking around and enjoying the wonderful snacks. I never bothered about dinner. The sweet sellers with their kavadis kept me well fed on shingadas, rasgulla, Madan Mohan and Chenna poda. A pack of jhal mudi and then tea to round off my indulgences was a perfect evening in Puri.

Hrishikesh Nayak sand artist a permanent fixture here

The day time I thought I shall dedicate to the Jagannath. On the 22 Jan I decided to have a head bath, wore new clothes and went to the🛕 temple. It was the day of Ram Lalla punar sthapna in Ayodhya so all the temples across Bharat were doing a special pooja in the morning. The CM of Odisha was inside the temple so all the pilgrims were held outside the temple in the waiting area for 2 hrs. 

The line finally moved and we went into the mandap and all hell broke loose. Push push shove shove. 

I was overwhelmed by the crowd and what to expect, where to look and from how much distance? our bhaav or emotion is not enough. There has to be a strategy for darshan! 

I complained to the police there who keep tapping with bamboo fans on the pilgrims heads asking them to move on. I told him I did not see the Lord whom I have come from so far to see. He told me to wait for 20 mins and then led me in front of the sanct sanctorium. Still no success! I did get a glimpse of something. Was it Balabhadra or Subhadra? Not Jagannath surely! 🥹

So here are my tips for darshan after 3 visits. 

1. Go for darshan in the morning at 5am. Just after Aarti the pilgrims are allowed to the first door of the sanct sanctorium. This is the closest one can go. 

2. Go from right and move to left so you get darshan of all three deities, Jagannath on right, Subhadra in the center and Balbhadra on left. 

3. Jagannath is black, Subhadra yellow and Balbhadra is white. 

4. I got mool roop darshan in the morning on my 3rd attempt so that must be possible every day at 5 am.

5. See with open eyes when you go for darshan. Don’t close your eyes in obeisance. Fill him in your heart as much as possible.

6. Day time darshan and Night time darshan both are from 3rd door so it’s very far. 

7. If you wear spectacles please wear them and go for darshan. 

8. This is one of the Dhaam from Chaar Dhaam Yatra. It was my first one.

While first day I went at 9 am then at 9pm and then on third day I went in the morning at 5am. That’s when I got the darshan to my satisfaction! 

JAI JAGANNATH 🙏🏽

Jagannath darshan is incomplete without darshan of Bimala Devi so don’t miss it. The temple is behind the main temple on the left within the complex. Bimala Devi is the first Shakti peeth hence important in tantra worship. 

You can go around the temple kitchen and watch food being prepared for Mahaprasad bhog. Later go to Anand Bazar and have bhog there. It’s a system that Adi Shankaracharya started in Jagannath Puri and is emulated by all temples across Odisha. Food is cooked in the temple kitchens by the temple cooks. For a small cost bhog is available to pilgrims to eat there itself. Also buy dry prasad of khaja and other things to bring home.

Raghurajpur Heritage Village

 

Pattochitra

In just 28 kms from Pipili I reached Raghurajpur. The beautiful pond welcomes you as also the decorated homes. This village is a settlement of artists of all kinds. There is a straight road that goes down the village with shops with workshops that paint Pattochitra. I could watch them paint and they love telling stories. I am ever grateful to them for allowing me to document their fabulous stories which I will share here in several videos.

They also sell papier-mâché crafted birds, masks and other crafts. I bought a little something from everyone. This is one experience that one should not miss!

Pipili Live

 

21 Jan 2024

After 3 nights and 2 days in the capital city of Odisha it was time for some solo sojourn. 

The plan was to go to Puri and anchor there for few days. I was told the route took only 1.30 hrs but would I reach my destination in that time? Impossible when you know what lies in between to discover. Travelling in Odisha is all the more fun because it’s packed with so much to explore. 

I left Hotel La Franklin, Bhubaneswar around  9 am and in 45 mins reached the town of Pipili. The town famous for appliqué work and the cloth lamps. I walked around the market and bought some stuff for home and gifting. This town makes all the decorations for Jagannath right from every day use chadars to cover the deities to the more grand Rath Yatra. 

I requested the seller to courier my buys to my address because I was very sure my baggage was going to swell up even more. Everything works on trust. Paying the bill after shopping. Giving your address. Later paying in advance for shipping to the courier. 🚚 

This town lies on the route to Puri. It feels like a Mumbai Pune ride but via state highway 😃 Yet a very interesting route. Wait and watch to see which town I stop by next…

Showing Bubble my shopping 🛍️ 

Udaygiri and Khandgiri

 

Udaygiri and Khandgiri a set of hills that is just outside Bhubaneswar. Like I said before there are several places in Bhubaneswar and nearby that one can explore that it is a delight for tourists who love heritage.

Udaygiri or Kumari parvat has many natural and man made caves that are carved out in the hills as a monastery for Jains. The development of these caves started in the 1st BCE during the reign of King Kharavela. We see credits in the Haathi gumpha edicts even though weathered some parts are still legible. The script is Prakirt.

We occupied the throne created here for the visiting Queen or King. It is part of the Rani Gumpha the largest two storied cave with interesting carving of Kalinga war depicting women warriors fighting along with men against Emperor Ashok. The women can be identified by their curvaceous bodies and anklets and men with unadorned feet and square cut bodies. 

Daily life in the 1st century 

Hunting party

The double decker Rani Gumpha with fantastic torana

Our most entertaining guide 

Whose throne is this?

The echo used for amplification of chanting or broadcast?

This ornately decorated single cell and the warrior mutilated by KalaPahad 😡

Chota haathi Gumpha 

Baajghar the bunker with a built in bed 🛏️ and pillows. 

There is also the rasoi ghar and the tiger 🐯 face single cell. Most of the structures have dwarpals. They are not just decorations but act as deterrents for attackers, animals and even men. 

Leaving this incomplete because I want you to go explore this place. There is so much to learn especially about the Jain culture that still exists here. To get new perspectives that history books don’t teach. 

Watch this video on my Instagram @swachchanda

Later we enjoyed some chaat in Bhubaneswar. Read about it on my food blog AnnaParabrahma.