Karmarkar Museum Sasawane

After I finished exploring upto Murud from Nagaon, Revdanda and Agrav I returned home to Thal. As we consider the geography Thal is in the middle if you are to visit upto Murud. On the Revas side lie Zirad, Awas Mandwa Sasawane etc. 

One afternoon at lunch time I had a reco for 

Buono Pizzeria Alibag

I thoroughly enjoyed the pizza, garlic bread, salad and tiramisu there. 

Post lunch was a good time for a leisurely walk to check out the Karmakar museum at Saswane. The home of the famous sculptor is a museum of his sculptures. It’s a lovely bungalow done in vernacular style architecture of the Kokan with wood work and Mangalore tiled roof. That itself is an attraction.

Padmashree Vinayak Pandurang Karmarkar

Quoting wiki 

“His father was a farmer and a bit inclined to music. Vinayak used to carve Ganesh idols during Ganesh festival. Vinayak who used to paint his house walls and make small idols from clay. He was fond of making sculptures right from his childhood. He once made a painting of Chatarapati Shivaji Maharaj on a horse on the walls of the Ram Mandir, which was well appreciated by the Villagers and the District Collector Mr. Otto Rothfield, who later enrolled him in the Sir Jamsetjee Jeejebhoy School of Art in Mumbai. He topped the exams and was awarded ‘Lord Mayo’ Medal. The most famous among his other sculptures are 'Shankha-Dhwani', 'Matsya-Kanya' and 'Humjoli'. His style was realistic.” 

 

Children of the yore. This sculpture moved me enough to comment on it. It reflects the prejudices against girls. Older sisters took care of baby siblings locally it was common to call older sister ‘barki baai’ small mother. See the other older brother reading a book. Sacrifice was put on a pedestal !

View of the beautiful backyard from the balcony at the back

Matsya kanya

Ahmedgunj Palace

While you drive towards Murud from Revdanda on the right hand side after the Ganpati mandir at Nandgaon is located a beautiful palace. This palace was constructed for administrative purpose by the Siddhis. 

This is the coat of arms of the Siddhis on the gate of the palace. The ship is a prominent feature in it. As they definitely ruled this part with pride and strength. 

The Ahmedgunj palace is the new name given to this old palace built in the 1800s. Earlier it was called the Siddhi’s palace or Janjira palace.

My brave Omid stood there and posed for me while the Nawab’s 2 Rottweilers were barking like mad on the other side of the gate. 

Since this is still a private residence of the Nawab they haven’t opened it for public viewing. So you get to see only the exteriors. Do search Architectural Digest to see the beautifully maintained interiors of the palace. 

Nevertheless it can’t happen that I drive past the palace casually. I always stop to take a peek from the gates itself. 

 

The Khokari Tombs at Murud

Omid was enjoying the drive by the sea a lot. He was popping his head out to feel the breeze. The hero that he is. Through the fishing villages and the Murud town we drove towards Rajapuri. 

In the distant in the middle of a calm sea was the Janjira we spotted it as we drove over the hill road. 

After a few twists n turns we arrived at the Khokari tombs. Three large structures built in black basalt. The style Indo Sarcenic.

The Siddi Surul Khan the chief of Janjira who ruled during the early 1700s wanted his tomb near his older brothers Yakut Khan and Khairiyat Khan who lie in the smaller tombs of the three. 

He built the largest one during his lifetime and assigned the responsibility of the maintenance to the near by villages after his death.

The view from the tombs is stunning. Thoughtfully chosen by a ruler who commanded this region. Currently the ASI maintains the location. 

The jaalis, the embellishments are minimalistic yet stunning. 

This masjid was in use till recent decade. The Quran readings took place every Thursday. But now only the Urs happens once a year. 

I was here after many decades. The fascinating views still untouched and frozen in time.

We drove towards the Murud beach where the Patil Khanaval is located. I loved the beautiful wadi in which we can enjoy a wonderful seafood meal under the canopy of coconut 🌴 palms. Unhurried and relaxed. I took a pomfret thali. Which had pomfret curry, rice, whole fried pomfret, salad, rice roti and sol kadhi to cool down. Omid roamed freely. No pictures of the thali as my phone had died.

I wanted to stay at the Murud beach but the hotels do not allow pets. So went back to Vasundhara cottage!

Sri Siddhi Vinayak Mandir Nandgaon

 

Sri Siddhi Vinayak Mandir at Nandgaon is steeped in history and lore. It is very accessible as it is on the road to Murud from Revdanda, Alibag. 

We drove from Agrav past Kashid beach which looked deserted as it was still just after monsoon season. That’s my fur baby enjoying the views of the sea as we drove along side.

Nandgaon was called Nandigram centuries ago. Today it falls under Raigad district and Murud Taluka. 

Keshav Daivagya built this temple and installed Shri Siddhi Vinayak Ganapati. Ganesh that has a trunk turned towards the right is recognised as a Siddhivinayak. One who fulfils wishes of his worshipers.

Keshav Joshi as his name suggests was a Daivadnya or Astronomer and Astrologer. His books and commentaries on the subject were very well known. He wished for a son and named him Ganesh after the boon was fulfilled by this Siddhivinayak. 

Ganesh later went on to create the very popular panchang or astronomical math book called GrahaLaghav.

This mandir was then handed over to the Gupte family for seva. It is now managed by the Gupte & Chitnis families. Every year the Ganesh Jayanti is celebrated with great pomp. 

I haven’t seen a more cute mooshak anywhere as is here.

The temple is a Kokan vernacular architecture with a large Sabha mandap with airy large windows. 

The main idol and the silver Prabhavali seem from the Peshwa era. 

This mandir was renovated in the 1960s and ever since well managed. It has a clean lawn and one can sit out in the evenings and relax. I was however off on an onward journey to Murud and the Khokari tombs.

My first ever visit to Revdanda Fort

While I stayed in Agrav I decided to visit the Revdanda fort. The ramparts through which I have driven many a times but never visited. 

Fortaleza de Chaul in Portuguese. It was built by Captain Soj in 1524. That is recorded history but locals say there already existed crude fortifications in that place. 

There are these graves on the premises. Wondering if Captain Soj sleeps there. 

I had gone to the fort in the evening and it was getting closed as it is under the ASI administration. So had to rush around but spent a leisurely time on the beach. This beach isn’t all that crowded. Only challenge is accessing it from the Fort isn’t possible. You have to go down a mud path from outside that leads to the beach.  I jumped down but Omid wouldn’t! 

This fort is located where the Kundalika river meets the sea. Just at the start of Salav bridge. 

So I went on another morning just to take a quieter look around. Omid loved running around here. He is a happy camper and the coolest travel companion! 

The tower is called saat khani as it used to be 7 storeys but now only 5 remain. 

Surrounding the fort are a lot of Christian settlements. They speak a fusion language of local and Portuguese called Kristi or Creole. They are farmers and grow the best round big brinjals. 

Those are a specialty and should get a GI tag. They make great Taleli vangi or kaap. Those are faux fish fries for the vegetarian 😆