Doing Ooty Solo

Day5 | May2024Hols 

After the Upnayanas were done n dusted in BLR. I had planned to take a holiday in the mountains. All the 7 yrs that I lived in BLR I avoided visiting Ooty. It’s too crowded and expensive too I have heard too many times. Ooty is a honeymooner’s paradise so this dream of going there with a partner has been nurtured since childhood. Later I found out that my MIL & FIL too had honeymooned in BLR-MYSORE-Ooty when I married Arvi. I therefore had this urge to go now thinking it’s ok to do things Solo. Walking down sloped meadows with your Mr. Darcy was not going to happen now at age 54. 

I took a cab from BLR and while I passed by areas old memories started getting heavy on me. The thoughts 💭 that started forming seemed to tell me that someone still meant so much to me. It’s been 13 yrs since the last conversation over phone when I had desperately tried my best to drive some sense. Show the mirror. To give hope. 

I took a coffee break. My head too full of the past. Treated my chauffeur to an expensive coffee too. 

Passed through Bandipur plains and the Madhumalai mountains not a tiger 🐯 in view. I did see a deer 🦌 prancing around and lots of monkeys 🙈 🙉🐵🙊 wishing atleast to spot one elephant 🐘 

It was a very sultry drive or was it my shades that made me feel dulled. The AC in the car 🚙 was pleasant though. As we approached Ooty the Nilgiris got foggy like my mind. Then it rained giving it a release. The brown burnt mountains bathed in mother natures love. 

I reached Saffron stays at Milton Abbot Estate. All this while my group of friends were being updated for my security. So sent them a click of the place. Immediately the film buffs recognised it as a location they had seen in few movies. 

I was shown the room. I yelped with joy!🤩 They had upgraded me to an entire suite! I have a video of it will post it on YouTube since it is long.

It was late afternoon I was restless. Soaked in the beauty of it. 

In the evening on the sit out enjoyed magical onion pakoras with tea made by the lady cook at the house. 

 

The rest of the evening just got colder. I put on my overcoat and stepped out to explore the beautiful estate. 

 

It was late dinner. I had requested for mutton parotta and a full vegetarian thali. I wanted to eat like a Queen and sleep well. 

Thank you Arvi for this luxury life. 🙏🏽

Nageshwar, Awas

Alibag Series #12 

Nageshwar mandir in Awas has an incredible history. It is the jiwantta samadhi of Nagoba sadhu and very revered by Alibagkars.

This board gives the detailed history of Nageshwar mandir. 

It’s a village on the west coast of India. A sadhu named Nagoba visited Rameshwar, Gokarna, Mahabaleshwar, Parshuram, Harihareshwar etc holy places and then from the south arrived at Awas to seek the darshan of Swayambhu Ganpati. This was about 500 years ago. He wished to go to Kankeshwar and therefore stayed at Awas. Here he was much loved and surrounded by people and therefore could not visit Kankeshwar. Inspite of that he revered Kankeshwar. 

While in Awas he acquired two disciples Changoba and Budhoba. He had a little knowledge about medicine. SheshNarayan was the centre of his faith. He would have darshan of him in his dreams and in physical form. Once at the location where he bathe SheshNarayan appeared. It was dark and Baba grappled in the dark and found the snake. He handed over the snake to a disciple. That snake would slither on his body and since he was not harmed people found it miraculous. On the seashore too there was a Kevada forest which was infested with poison reptiles and animals. When Nagoba sadhu passed by these animals never harmed him inspite of these reptiles and animals crossing his path. 

Nageshwar Yatra

After Nagoba Sadhu’s arrival in Awas, this little village showed signs of prosperity. The rains were timely and hence harvests improved. Overall health of people improved and epidemics vanished. The fear of poisonous animals withered away from people’s minds. He lived here for many years and had a very large following of people. He believed that the love of people and their devotion may not last. So he decided to take samadhi in Awas. Accordingly he instructed his disciples to dig up a pit. He announced it to his followers that a samadhi will take place in the same place where he sits. After the pit was dug it was lined with wild Darbha grass. Then people did pooja and offered naivedya to him. Pleased with this display of love and devotion by his disciples and followers. He declared that after his samadhi they will find 3 idols of snakes in that very place on wood. If people worship these idols and wish for fulfilment they will come true. There will be prosperity, unhappiness will be destroyed and people will live happily. After him he assigned the management to Rane family. He instructed that after his samadhi on the that day every year. The snake form appearing on the wood should be carried to Kankeshwar every year on the tithi for darshan amidst chanting of NARAYAN. Ever since on the second of yatra the ritual of carrying the Nagoba form in a palakhi. It is first paraded in Awas village and then is carried to Kankeshwar for darshan. Thus the tradition was established. Along with Nagoba sadhu his 2 prominent disciples Changoba and Budhoba also followed in with Samadhi. After Samadhi for 3 days milk was fed to them through a pipe. After the 3rd day and end of their life the milk stopped passing through and returned in the pipe. That day is recorded as Kartik Shukla Trayodashi Bharani Nakshatra. 

After samadhi Nagoba showed him presence in the form of possession in the Rane family. Lives of many people who have been bitten by a poisonous snake have been saved here by mere bringing the victim to Nageshwar. As informed by Nagoba Sadhu we are able to worship the three snake forms on wood here. 

As per this history of Nagoba sadhu Kartik Shuddha Chaturdashi is celebrated every year as a remembrance of the samadhi with Jatra. This jatra in Awas is the biggest one in Alibag. 

A large number of people come to worship there. We wish for relief from suffering and once wish is fulfilled they offer metal bells as a sign of gratitude. The bells are tied in the sanctorium amidst loud chanting of Nagoba Dev ! 

With that concludes the Alibag series.

Karmarkar Museum Sasawane

After I finished exploring upto Murud from Nagaon, Revdanda and Agrav I returned home to Thal. As we consider the geography Thal is in the middle if you are to visit upto Murud. On the Revas side lie Zirad, Awas Mandwa Sasawane etc. 

One afternoon at lunch time I had a reco for 

Buono Pizzeria Alibag

I thoroughly enjoyed the pizza, garlic bread, salad and tiramisu there. 

Post lunch was a good time for a leisurely walk to check out the Karmakar museum at Saswane. The home of the famous sculptor is a museum of his sculptures. It’s a lovely bungalow done in vernacular style architecture of the Kokan with wood work and Mangalore tiled roof. That itself is an attraction.

Padmashree Vinayak Pandurang Karmarkar

Quoting wiki 

“His father was a farmer and a bit inclined to music. Vinayak used to carve Ganesh idols during Ganesh festival. Vinayak who used to paint his house walls and make small idols from clay. He was fond of making sculptures right from his childhood. He once made a painting of Chatarapati Shivaji Maharaj on a horse on the walls of the Ram Mandir, which was well appreciated by the Villagers and the District Collector Mr. Otto Rothfield, who later enrolled him in the Sir Jamsetjee Jeejebhoy School of Art in Mumbai. He topped the exams and was awarded ‘Lord Mayo’ Medal. The most famous among his other sculptures are 'Shankha-Dhwani', 'Matsya-Kanya' and 'Humjoli'. His style was realistic.” 

 

Children of the yore. This sculpture moved me enough to comment on it. It reflects the prejudices against girls. Older sisters took care of baby siblings locally it was common to call older sister ‘barki baai’ small mother. See the other older brother reading a book. Sacrifice was put on a pedestal !

View of the beautiful backyard from the balcony at the back

Matsya kanya

Ahmedgunj Palace

While you drive towards Murud from Revdanda on the right hand side after the Ganpati mandir at Nandgaon is located a beautiful palace. This palace was constructed for administrative purpose by the Siddhis. 

This is the coat of arms of the Siddhis on the gate of the palace. The ship is a prominent feature in it. As they definitely ruled this part with pride and strength. 

The Ahmedgunj palace is the new name given to this old palace built in the 1800s. Earlier it was called the Siddhi’s palace or Janjira palace.

My brave Omid stood there and posed for me while the Nawab’s 2 Rottweilers were barking like mad on the other side of the gate. 

Since this is still a private residence of the Nawab they haven’t opened it for public viewing. So you get to see only the exteriors. Do search Architectural Digest to see the beautifully maintained interiors of the palace. 

Nevertheless it can’t happen that I drive past the palace casually. I always stop to take a peek from the gates itself. 

 

The Khokari Tombs at Murud

Omid was enjoying the drive by the sea a lot. He was popping his head out to feel the breeze. The hero that he is. Through the fishing villages and the Murud town we drove towards Rajapuri. 

In the distant in the middle of a calm sea was the Janjira we spotted it as we drove over the hill road. 

After a few twists n turns we arrived at the Khokari tombs. Three large structures built in black basalt. The style Indo Sarcenic.

The Siddi Surul Khan the chief of Janjira who ruled during the early 1700s wanted his tomb near his older brothers Yakut Khan and Khairiyat Khan who lie in the smaller tombs of the three. 

He built the largest one during his lifetime and assigned the responsibility of the maintenance to the near by villages after his death.

The view from the tombs is stunning. Thoughtfully chosen by a ruler who commanded this region. Currently the ASI maintains the location. 

The jaalis, the embellishments are minimalistic yet stunning. 

This masjid was in use till recent decade. The Quran readings took place every Thursday. But now only the Urs happens once a year. 

I was here after many decades. The fascinating views still untouched and frozen in time.

We drove towards the Murud beach where the Patil Khanaval is located. I loved the beautiful wadi in which we can enjoy a wonderful seafood meal under the canopy of coconut 🌴 palms. Unhurried and relaxed. I took a pomfret thali. Which had pomfret curry, rice, whole fried pomfret, salad, rice roti and sol kadhi to cool down. Omid roamed freely. No pictures of the thali as my phone had died.

I wanted to stay at the Murud beach but the hotels do not allow pets. So went back to Vasundhara cottage!