20 Jan 2024
The second day of my Odisha trip started solo. Just like the previous day. The girls and I decided that I do the morning travels solo and that they would join me post lunch to explore Udaygiri and Khandgiri.
This day on I hired a car to keep through my travels. Sai had made arrangements for the car and driver. So I got a pick up at the Hotel La Franklin where I was staying.
It took just 30 mins to reach Dhauli or Dhavalgiri hills. It was a beautiful morning and the ride enjoyable. Parked the car and walked up to the stupa. There were many buses parked there and I expected a rush. The many photographers chasing pilgrims and tourists. I decided to request for one on the way back. That is the first picture in this post. The rest were all taken on my phone.
The Stupa was built in the early 1970s with help of Japanese 🇯🇵 patronage. It is surrounded by panels depicting Buddhist stories from history. The epic one on Ashok surrendering the sword after the war of Kalinga at the feet of Buddha is very moving.
This is the land of Kalinga and the war was fought here. Ashok won the war but against whom? is not known however the answer might lie in the edicts at Udaygiri. The Kalinga war costed 2.5 lakh deaths. It was the bloodiest of all battles. That had blood flowing with the river. The Daya river had turned red say some accounts of the war. The land is still red and fertile. It’s a beautiful view to see from the hill top stupa and Mandir as we reflect on the futility of war.
There are edicts that tell the administration about Dandaniti or systems of law to help govern the new kingdom and hence warning people of repercussions of revolt. Locals say that this indicates that Ashok was victorious and offering the victory at Buddha’s feet of spreading Buddhism and not because he was repentant. Interesting isn’t it?
Behind the stupa on another hill is the Dhauleeshwar mandir a dedication to Shiva.
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