Day # 5 : 17th Dec 2003

At 9.30 am we left Munnar and moved towards Thekkady. The drive was amazing halfway. It was through the tea gardens and the other half through spice gardens. We drove through many towns reaching our Hotel High Range at 2.00pm. I was quite tired as the drive was getting warmer.

Tie your yellow ribbon round old oak tree ~~~~ These are Silver Oaks!!

I was starved when we reached but did not feel like eating the hotel food. Before leaving Munnar we had a good breakfast of Appam, Puttu, Idiyappams with vegetable stew and Black Chana Masala. So I ate cheese spread and bread. I have noted that outside Mumbai sandwich bread is difficult to find. The bread available is always Milk bread. It was fresh and yummy. Dad had Dal and rice with papads and pickle. The High range Hotel was a mediocre one and definitely not a three star. These games by tour operator to compromise on one of the hotels is a know issue. I did raise it though. It felt like staying in a village home in the midst of an orchad and spice garden. It was beautiful outside though.

We then drove to Periyar sanctuary and slept on the way. It was around 4.00pm we were told a college group had blocked the entire lot of booking for the 4.00 pm boat ride and the next one available to us would be next morning. Aslam had adviced us that the 4.00pm ride was the best as that is when the animals came out to the water front for a drink of water. It was a better chance of spotting animals before they retired at nightfall. We were very upset. I smelt a rat in the whole thing! Just then a guy offered us tickets in black for extra Rs.25 per head. I took them. Don't curse me.


The boat ride was excellent. We saw a lot of animals. Aslam was right. It was as if they were out there for us black bucks, wild bisons, boars, a herd of elephants and Otters!! We saw a lot of birds too. I loved the Otters they are such lovable creatures. They would come out of their holes and jump into the water. Their emotions are almost human, hugging, kissing and being in a gang!

Remember to take the 4.00pm boat ride at Periyar when you visit. It is the best time.

The boat ride itself was exhilarating as the double decker huge launch slowly plys through the lakes serene environs. An American co-passenger commented, "Why does the tiger not come out for a drink of water just for us!" It made all of us burst out in laughter. But alas the tiger never did show up. Nature allows you to see only what it wants to show.

We then returned to the town and had tea with pazhampori (banana fritters, my kind). I liked it a lot. After which we went to the spice market and bought some spices for family and friends.

We returned to the hotel and took rest for a while and decided to explore the town a bit just before dinner time. We went looking for some artifacts. There was nothing of great interest that we found but my Dad who loves to shop decided to buy some silver for me at a Kashmiri shop. Imagine that buying Kashmiri craft in Kerala! Only my Dad can do that!

Day # 4 : 16th Dec 2003

This morning I woke up early and had bath and geared up with my new sneakers and jacket to beat the cold. We stepped out for a morning walk. It was beautiful and dew drenched outside. It was lovely to see Munnar wake up and to see people on their way to work. As we walked up the hill we saw a tiny teashop where the localites had crowded and that was a sure sign of good breakfast so we decided to check it out. The appams were lacy soft and purrrrfect! while the chana was full bodied. In Kerala I noted food tasted just like our Koli stuff, the spicing and the use of coconut etc.

Today Aslam was late for pick up so while we awaited I was sitting in the lounge and was looking at the view outside my room and behind the hotel. The hills were strewn with wild flowers.

We then drove to Eravukulam National Park to see wild goats. These are a species available only in India & Australia.
The drive to the national park is amazing it takes about 1.5 hrs from Munnar town. One finds the drive itself rejuvenating. The goats we saw have greyish brown coat, medium sized horns and look similar to deers. They prefer to perch on the rocks. This sanctuary is the highest peak of the hills in Munnar at an altitude of 7000 to 8000 ft above sea level.

Munnar is covered by a sprawling 6000 hectares of tea gardens. Most are owned by Tata Tea & Harrison Malayalam.
We walked the 2 km trekking path in the Sanctuary. When we drove back we picked up some fresh carrots, strawberries and passion fruit. To our surprise we found a little waterfall at the foothills and stopped there for a drink of water.



It was sparkling clean and cool. I was amazed to see a rainbow near the waterfall due to the spraying of the water.

We returned to Munnar town for lunch at Hotel Saravana by 12.30 pm. The food was mostly Keralite meal with 3 bhajis+ sambhar+ papad+ fried chili+ rasam+ dal etc. all for just Rs.22 with endless heaps of rice. We were informed they served white rice as well as red rice. Ofcourse we chose white rice as our palate is not accustomed to the red one.

After the meal we drove to Madupetty dam. We took a speed boat ride. It cost he us Rs. 200/ boat but since we shared it with 2 more people we paid Rs.50 per head.

It was expensive as it was just for 15 mins. We both Dad and me tried our hand at navigating it. I was excited with the ride. We stopped at the echopoint. It was an amazingly silent area. Later we drove by car to echo point.

I lay on the grass and watched the clouds kissing the hill peaks. I also saw some birds picking worms. We shouted our lungs out to hear the echo. It was a beautiful experience that touched the soul and at such times you are reminded of that someone special.

We then drove to the second dam. Though both these dams are just 15 mins drive from each other as we neared it we felt the chill in the air. There was a lovely Cherry Blossom tree on the dam.
By now it was 4.30 pm so we decided to drive back to Munnar town to see the Blossom Park. This place was a total let down it was not maintained properly however I enjoyed sitting on the swing hung on the tree branch.

Then we returned to the hotel and had hot water bath and decided to later hit the town. Unfortunately there was a power failure so we could not see much so we went ahead for dinner at Hotel Saravanna. I had rava dosa which was excellent. Dad had Kerala parotha and veg kurma. After this we returned to the hotel.

Day # 3 : 15th Dec 2003

This day began with a hot tub bath, ate snacks in the room. At 8.45 am Aslam our driver for the next 10 days impeccable manners, gloved hands and caring nature impressed us instantly and he was just a 20 something guy. Came to pick us up. The Indica provided to us looked in perfect condition. Aslam's Indica was perfect for Dad and me even though it is a small car compared to Toyota Qualis they gave us yesterday.

We tasted our first appam with veg stew at Hotel sapphire a coffee shop on S.A. Rd in Cochin. The place was warm and friendly. The bright crisp air of Cochin put us in great anticipation as we sipped our cups of tea/coffee. This cost us just 11 Rs. Everything was so inexpensive in Kerala.

Our sightseeing in Cochin began with a visit to the Dutch Palace Museum. This palace belonged to the Verma dynasty. We saw the royal robes, weapons, Ivory palanquins and a Meena made in teak wood. The canopy of the Ivory palanquin was a cloth handwoven with silver zari to form floral designs. The entire ceiling was carved. The palace had Portuguese type of a seat at the windows. The royal robes had zardosi designs. The walls had murals painted from Ramayana and Krishna Leela. My Father slipped out quick on seeing the very explicit murals on the walls of the bed chamber. Cameras were not allowed in this palace.

The second place we saw was the Cochin Synagogue. Here there is a room which has pictures that document the history of the entry of the Jews in Kerala and the establishment of the Jewish kingdom. It also narrates the destruction of the kingdom.

We then drove to the harbor to see the Chinese finishing nets and the two churches, Vasco - da- Gama's and the Indo-Portugese one.

Returning to MG Rd. we had an authentic Kerala Thali at the Arya Bhavan for Rs.22 + Rs. 3 for the a/c :)

With our tummy full at 1.30pm we left the city of Cochin for Munnar. I was a bit drowsy after the sapid. On the way we stopped at 2 small water falls.

At around 4.30pm we reached the suicide point. Behind the tea shop we saw an amazing view of the hills. This tea shop has an antique looking cart installed outside as an attraction for tourists.

At 5.00pm we reached Munnar, a tiny town nestled in the valley of the surrounding hill range. There are three streams which confluence in Munnar. On reaching the hotel we had a hot water bath and then stepped out for a walk and as early as 7.00pm the town already looked sleepy.

At Shree Narayan Annexe we were given a small room with a master bed, table, chair, a luggage and a shoe rack. I like the red carpet and the war and bright red blankets which added color and character to the otherwise small room.

The funny thing was that at the reception I told the attendant that we did not want a/c. I asked him if it was central a/c in the hotel. He gave me a mocking look for my ignorance and informed me that it was natural and the temp falls to -2 to -4 deg celcius. I was wonder struck and muttered "in Kerala!!! "

That night we warmed up on tomato soup and gobi manchurian followed by Kerala Paratha and mutter paneer and retired to our room for a good night's sleep.